Her knife moves rhythmically up and down, over and over, guided sharply over fresh fennel. Her eyes flick to the left as she shifts to spy on the purple and white Hinona turnips roasting in the oven. At the stove, she stirs a massive enamel pot of grits, then returns to dicing, resuming the rhythm as if she never stopped.
Kenan Crawford Hill, cook and creator of Kitchen 1204, is preparing a Wholesome Wave farm-to-table benefit dinner at Skylight Farm, an Atlanta-area organic vegetable farm run by my husband, Justin. I bounce back and forth between the kitchen and the barn, where he and I greet a stream of visitors arriving for the autumnal gathering.
For a handful of guests, this is the first time they’ve set foot on a farm. There’s something that happens to people when they visit. I think of it as “farm face.”